I am sure by now that the majority of people here know that I am a great fan of cooking and particularly love modern cuisine (often called molecular gastronomy because of the scientific nature of it). I have been wanting to do a list like this for some time and finally got around to it! This list comprises the 10 most common (but unusual) techniques used in haute cuisine at the moment. While they are not all new ideas, they are all unique in the way that they are now being put to use. These methods are becoming so popular that many amateur cooks are incorporating them into their home cooking. All I ask is that you read this list with an open mind – many of the things here may seen awful – but I assure you, once you taste this type of cooking, you are a convert.
Imagine a bowl of steaming prawn noodles – made almost entirely with prawns and including no flour (the prime ingredient in noodles). This is the type of food you can produce using Transglutaminase (“meat glue”). Transglutaminase breaks down the cells of meat and basically turns it to a mush that can be piped or shaped. It is used in commercial food for binding meats together (as in hot dogs and sausages) but it really comes to life in the hands of modern chefs. Pictured above is a plate of shrimp noodles by Wylie Dufresne, chef of New York’s avant-garde restaurant wd~50.
This is an incredibly exciting product being used in cooking. Methyl cellulose is a compound that turns to a firm gel when it is heated. For this reason, many bakeries mix it into their pie fillings to ensure that they don’t spill out of their pastry shells when cooking. But, the molecular gastronomers have found a more exciting use for it in their restaurants: hot ice cream! This is done by mixing a standard ice cream base with methyl cellulose (1.5% of the total recipe) and submerging a scoop filled with the liquid into a pot of hot water. The hot water causes the ice cream to go hard. This is served immediately and as the ice cream cools down, it melts! Pictured above is hot cauliflower ice cream [image source].
Some restaurants are now experimenting with food via the other senses that we normally don’t relate to cuisine – such as darkness and audio. For example, when eating in a pitch black environment, diners are said to have a much greater appreciation of individual flavors in food as they are not distracted by the in-built perceptions of food that come from appearance. Other restaurants use sound to enhance flavor – at the Fat Duck there is a course called “Sound of the Sea” in which you listen to the sounds of the sea through an iPod while eating powdered baby eels, oysters, pickled onion juice foam, and more. It is an extraordinary experience. Scientists have shown that when a person eats a carrot with the crunch amplified via a microphone and headphones, the consumer believes it to be much fresher and cleaner tasting than a carrot without the audio equipment. Pictured above is the iPod in a shell that each diner receives at the Fat Duck to accompany the delicious “Sound of the Sea” course which can be seen here complete with powders and foam.
Powders are a new addition to modern menus – they are flavors that are dried to a dust and then sprinkled or served alongside food as a garnish (you can see two types of powder in the first image of this list). In some restaurants they are served as an entire course on their own. The main method for preparing powders is to mix a liquid of some type with maltodextrin. This is then processed in a food processor until you get a powder of the consistency you prefer. An incredibly tasty powder is made from rendered bacon fat and maltodextrin – it melts in your mouth while filling it with an intense bacon flavor. What more could anyone want to eat?! In the clip above we see a chef at Alinea, one of the great American molecular gastronomy restaurants making a caramel powder. Here is the full youtube clip on Alinea which demonstrates many of the ideas in this list.
No doubt we are all familiar with the good old slow cooked stews that our parents made. But modern cuisine has to take things further. First, a little science: when cooking meat at a high temperature, the flesh contracts and pushes the liquid out – the end result being a dry lump of hard meat. The solution to this is to cook the meat at the perfect temperature for eating – low enough not to cause constriction of the flesh. Master chef Heston Blumenthal (pictured above) has a recipe which calls for beef to be cooked at 50 degrees for 24 hours. When it is done, you sear it with a blow torch to brown it and flavor it. The resulting flesh is so soft it can be cut with a spoon. In his restaurant (the Fat Duck), he roasts a chicken at high temperatures for the juices (and does not serve the meat), and then cooks one at low temperatures for the soft meat – this is served with the juices from the first bird. Expensive, but worth it.
In a way this is a rather ancient method of cooking – eggs could be said to be cooked sous vide when boiled. Sous vide (meaning “under vacuum”) is when food is vacuum packed and cooked in a pot of boiling water until it is done. The benefit of this type of cooking is that meat can be cooked for hours without over-cooking. For example, beef can be cooked to medium rare by boiling it in a vacuum sealed bag for one and a half hours at 160 degrees. Oxtail will cook perfectly in eight hours at 165 degrees. Because the water can be kept at a constant temperature (with the use of a thermometer), you can not overcook the meat. When the meat is done, you can brown it with a blow torch or in a frying pan – guaranteed perfect results every time – and the most tender meat you could imagine. Pictured above is beef cooked sous vide.
In the finest of modern restaurants, gravy and sauce are becoming a thing of the past – being replaced with airs and foams. Airs are produced by using a submersion blender with cooking juices or fruit juices combined with a stabilizer – usually lecithin. The blender causes the liquid to froth up and the froth is then used on the plated meal. Foams are slightly more dense than airs and they are generally made with a similar liquid, but foamed up in a cream whipping device charged with nitrous oxide. Airs and foams are both used in the same way but for different effects. In the clip above you can see a chef making a parmesan cheese flavored air. It should also be noted that in some restaurants, you can be served a course which is made of nothing but air.
If you thought airs were unusual – you ain’t seen nothin’ yet! In many haute cuisine restaurants, all of the senses comes into play – and smell (perhaps the most important sense next to taste) can play a significant role. The idea is to bathe the diners in scents that cause a deepening of the flavors of the food. This is achieved in a variety of ways. At the Fat Duck (rated best restaurant in the world in 2007), waiters spray lime scent when serving lime and green tea mousse. At El Bulli diners are given fresh stems of rosemary to smell while they eat, and in some restaurants, bags filled with food scents are stuck with holes and weighted so there is a constant release of odor during the meal. Next time you eat a piece of lamb, try sniffing a stem of rosemary instead of adding it while cooking – you get the flavor of rosemary without overpowering the delicate lamb flavor. In the video above you see a box of oak moss and liquids to which liquid nitrogen is added – the resulting “smoke” has a faint odor of moss. This clip is from the Fat Duck.
Alginates are a type of gum that cause calcium based liquids to gel. They are used to create “caviar” – fruit juices in the form of caviar, ravioli without pasta, and much more. The uses are virtually unlimited. In the video clip above, we see Ferran Adria, the owner of El Bulli (ranked the best restaurant in the world in 2008), making an “artificial” olive by using olive juice and alginate. As you can see the technique is not a particularly complex one, but the results are stunning.
Freezing has long been a staple in kitchens and cooking, but it is only recently that it is really coming to the fore – particularly extreme temperature and fast freezing. Liquid Nitrogen is especially useful in making ice cream as the rapid freezing prevents ice crystals from forming – and it is the ice crystals in ice cream that makes for an inferior product. Liquid Nitrogen frozen ice cream is the smoothest silkiest ice cream you will ever eat and it takes only a few minutes to freeze. You can also use this technique to freeze pure fruit juices into sorbets. In the video clip above, one of the waiters from the Fat Duck prepares bacon and egg ice cream – I know it sounds weird, but I can assure you, it is the nicest ice cream you could ever eat!
Contributor: JFrater

























that liquid nitrogen one was radical
wow. i didn’t realize that cooking could be so incredibly scientific and chemical.
thanks for this very interesting list. i would so love to try a liquid nitrogen frozen ice cream.
This list has completly gone over my head. I cant even begin to memorize all of these weird names let alone try them out. I think thats what restaurants are for but its nice to know more about whats going into your meal. Im going to try some hot ice cream. Thanx
well not endowed in this dept.
Great list and great videos too, thank you! Like you I’m a total foodie and if you like the concepts described here, try reading Heston Blumenthal’s “In Search of Perfection” books and Harold McGee “On Food and Cooking”. You won’t be disappointed!
For 99% of human history people have eaten whatever they can get their hands on. Right now, about half the world’s population eats whatever they can get their hands on. This all seems very unnecessary and self-indulgent.
And there’s no number 8.
Throughout human history if humans CAN indulge in aesthetic exploration, they will. It’s as simple as that. And why not? If we didn’t have the instinct to explore and try new things, we wouldn’t have developed as a species at all. And frankly, if we lose that, its a sign of failure.
Wow! I can’t believe that they use liquid nitrogen in such a casual manner. It is incredibly dangerous. I had a chemistry lecturer that had been doing lab work for years that almost lost a finger to frost bite when working with liquid nitrogen.
Amazing! I have something new to look for when I make trips to New York and London.
Jfrater, have you tried all of them? Any recommendations for where to go in London?
Telboy: I own Blumenthal’s perfection books and his “family food” which is also great
I will check out McGee – thanks
astraya: what is wrong with indulgence? And thanks for pointing out the missing item – I will fix that.
soakfu: Liquid Nitrogen is very safe if handled in the proper manner. For example, many people make the mistake of wearing gloves to handle it – opening themselves to the potential for frostbite! It is safer to have bare hands as the rapid evaporation in the case of a spill causes a protective layer between the liquid and the skin – in much the same way as our feet are protected when walking on hot coals.
downhighway61: I have tried all of the concepts here (I have eaten them – but not prepared them) – I can not recommend more the Fat Duck – it is in Bray (near Windsor) – an easy trip from London. You need to book three months in advance. When I went with 4 friends the total cost was 1,000 pounds (including wine) which is quite reasonable considering it is second best restaurant in the world this year (and was first best last year). You won’t regret it. Be sure to go for the tasting menu.
Okay – I have added item 8 – apologies for not including it at first
Awesome list! I’ve heard of all of these mostly because of a habit of leaving the food channel on while doing other things. Heston Blumenthal has a great show, can’t remember what its called at the time, but its definitely worth checking out!
Penguinball: the show is probably “Perfection” – I agree that it is excellent – Heston is an inspiration! He is my number one favorite chef – though I am sure you can tell considering I have him dotted throughout this list
Astraya: I was just thinking about your comment and I think it raises an interesting point: just because a large number of people are living hand to mouth doesn’t mean that we should all feel guilty for not doing so surely… I find your perspective difficult to fathom. Not everyone can afford a Bentley – so should no one drive one?
Psht, 1000 GBP is nothing!
$1500 just grows on trees! Luckily all my friends and I live off of those notoriously huge military salaries.
Ha, just kidding, I would totally save up for a trip there. And we’re not huge into wine, so there goes some of that.
I’m off for some research!
downhighway61: Here is the URL for the fat duck – there are some great reviews and photos that you can find on Google too.
Nice list Jamie, the only issue here is that only a very few of these could be tried at home as they seem to require elaborate processes.
knight_forked: amateur home cooks can easily replicate every item on this list. The only expense is buying the right materials (a stick blender for airs and a whipped cream canister for foams). You can buy all of the chemicals here online for home cooking and even liquid nitrogen is available for sale to the general public for a very low price per liter – and by low, I mean cents. They are not especially complicated – they just take more steps than most people are used to – for example the alginate olive – you need to press the olive through a sieve to get the juice – but then you just dunk it in the chemical solution et voila!
jfrater: I think what Astraya is trying to say has to do with basic amenities, not luxury items. If everyone cannot eat, I don’t think we should be inventing more luxurious ways for us to eat. Instead, we should invent better ways for EVERYONE to eat.
Sorry I forgot to say that I think the list is a good one and seems very innovative.
Tricia: so until everyone in the world has basic amenities (according to our western standards), we should all avoid luxury in life? I don’t like that idea at all! Be warned any person who tries to take my foie gras away!!!
Okay foie gras is not a basic amenity! That is extravigant, expensive and yes should be kept to a minimum when there are people who can’t get bread, let alone drop 1000 GBP on food!
I won’t take your foie gras away either. You’re entitled to it because you paid for it. But really, pureed liver? Ew.
Man I never thought the first time you replied to me would be when we disagree! I usually wholeheartedly agree with your arguements. Oh well I still love the site.
extravagant*
Bacon and egg ice cream…. try as I might to think of it being tasty, the thought of this scares me!
Tricia, where do you draw the line though? TV is a luxury. Cars are a luxury. Organic milk is a luxury.
No one should tell anyone else what luxuries they should and shouldn’t have.
hesten is a genious, it is a dream of mine to be able to travel the world to the fat duck, el bulli and the french laundry. I would have to say that foam and the air are not so much at the front of scientific cooking now as much as they were 3years ago and may cause a restaurant to appear pretencious, trying to keep up with the jones approach, instead of creating their own “foam” element.
And for the budding UK chefs http://www.creamsupplies.co.uk will supply all equipment.
I have heard of this new gastronomic invention around some areas of Scotland, called the battered mars bar, delicious and cheap
Tricia is a commie! j/k
theoretically, everyone in the planet CAN eat well- it’s just that some 3rd world dictators prioritize spending food money for weapons and shameless extravagances.
I said basic amenities. Food clothing and shelter. I live in a moderate house, I don’t wear name brand clothing (Gucci, Calvin Klein, etc), and I eat on a budget.
And also, I can’t stop and I’m not going to stop anyone from indulging in luxuries. I just gave my opinion that I agreed with Astraya. Can’t all that money and food wasted go to a hungry person? The post mentions an entire chicken that’s wasted just to get juice.
LOL I am kind of a commie! Maybe a socialist.
I don’t really like that I live in such a capitalist society. That much competition breeds greed and outsourcing to make the cheapest product fetch the most money.
I really want to try the 24 beef, but I don’t have a blow torch! jfrater do you think that you could sear the beef in a pan instead?
Jordan, blow torches are cheap. So is the gas for them. I bought one from a home improvement store to use for creme brulee, and I love it.
Tricia, maybe your broadband £10 a month or whatever would be better given to those who cannot eat or have clean water? Each to their own, and when you opinionise on how people “waste” their money, you should leave it to them how they spend it.
Tricia, Gucci is designer, American Eagle is an example of a brand name. I don’t wear generally designer clothes either.
Communism makes a nice theory.
OK fine I don’t wear designer clothing. My brands are Target and the Gap.
Peadaddy: I’ll keep those 10 pounds thanks , but the money I did give to charity will no doubt do that.
Uh, I’m not quite getting the “eating air” thing. Is that filling? Might be the diet that finally works!
Ah, nvm, not REALLY air. I’m stupid.
While I would never deign to tell you how you ought spend your money, even I have to say cooking a chicken just for juices for another chicken is over the top. What do they do with the first chicken after they’ve gotten the juices?
When people make chicken stock they throw out the vegetables and the chicken that are used. It’s quite common.
I do agree that it would be nice if people were more understanding towards other people in need. I’m not heartless. I just don’t care if people want to spend $1500 on a meal, or $10,000 on an outfit. I do try to help people, donate food to soup kitchens and whatnot. But my husband works very hard/harder than most for our money and we will spend it however we want.
its so unbeleiveable that how much modern ways of cooking are like entireley diffrent from what mom used to make oh and SEcond
D
was the “24 hour beef” cooked at 50 C (122F)? i don’t know how that could be food-safe in a restaurant. when i worked in restaurants any food that was being held hot had to be maintained at 200F (about 93 C) or above, or it was a health violation because of the potential for dangerous bacteria to multiply. too many violations and you get shut down. of course this was in the states, perhaps other places don’t regulate restaurant safety as stringently. i know we all probably do some things in our home kitchens that wouldn’t pass commercial health codes and rarely (if ever) get sick, but it’s different for businesses.
lo, maybe it’s different because it’s in the process of being cooked and not being held hot after cooking. Any experts want to weigh in?
I agree with Tricia.
You have to draw the line somewhere on how self-indulgent you should be with your money, and you don’t have to be a communist to realize how individualistic western society is. Money is a responsibility.
Bentleys are too much. A Ferrari is more practical.
Good list
(Sorry in advance for my horrible spelling
These items although interesting just don’t seem very appetizing. But I guess I’m just a simple girl from the south that enjoys down home cooking.
Complete overkill. I eat when I’m hungry, not to be part of the latest trends. I’ll settle for a cheeseburger cooked the old fashioned way anyday. I applaud your creativity and it’s an interesting list, but I agree with Tricia. Just because you CAN do something doesn’t mean it’s something you SHOULD do.
MT and Ben: thanks for your comments. You both make very good points.
Mmm… molecular gastronomy.
Munro: If you want to see some more science in cooking, read through about the Maillard reactions. It’s an older site, but http://www.8legged.com/Kitchen/FSL04_JS.html has a very informative bit about it.
Very cool list Jamie. The bacon/caramel powder sounds absolutely wonderful. I could have a baggie of bacon powder at work and snort a few lines in the bathroom – laugh all you want, but I would totally be addicted.
I suppose some of the examples on this list are pretentious horse*****, and restaurants always charge you more for it. I’ll stick to real gravy on my taters and real parmesan cheese on my spaghetti. Yeah, it’s probably ok to listen to the sounds of the sea while I shovel clam chowder into my pie-hole, but it would take away from my own slurping noises. And if everyone else in the restaurant has their ear buds in, I could go ahead and complement Francois the chef with a few well timed, window rattling belches. Hot ice cream? It’s called flan or custard or that fried ice cream ball you get at Casa Bonita. Vapor? I say who ever smelt it, dealt it.
I’ll stick to the drive thru at Mickey D’s. They have this unique cooking method by frying slender stalks of potatoes in beef tallow that makes them turn out just right.
But I did enjoy today’s offering Jamie.
slipstick: do you live somewhere that has access to Alton Brown from Good Eats? He’s into the science of cooking. He doesn’t just tell you how but WHY. Love him. I don’t get it much while I’m in the UK, but I have some of his DVD’s.
i am always facinated how science permeates every aspect of our lives…
i have never had the “haute cuisine” experience…
but on a recent trip to New York, I had the pleasure of dining at Del Posto…after having reservations booked 1 month in advance!!!
it was, by far, the most phenominal meal I had ever had…then I had lunch the next day at the Mandarin Orient… i have never before, or since, spent 100$ on myself for lunch! wonderful meal, ambiance was decadent, but Del Posto really opened my eyes…if i could afford to eat like that every day, i wouldn’t be so overweight…small portions don’t matter when quality and cuisine are impeccable!
it’s cheaper to eat crummy food, and when you are a college student in today’s American economy, you shop at Sam’s Club and have a monthly food budget of 80$ tops.
ringtailroxy
Eh. Why do you have to draw the line on what your own personal money is spent on?
If a person has the money, why should they not spend it? Let it sit in a savings account? Give it all away?
And no, just because you can do something doesn’t mean you should. Just because you can make art doesn’t mean you should. I mean, there are places that need volunteers, why waste your time on something frivolous?
I don’t think it’s pretentious, I think it’s interesting and apparently tasty too. It’s a bit like art for your mouth. Ears get to listen to pretty music and eyes get to look at pretty photos and noses get to smell pretty candles, why not treat your mouth? I don’t think it’s much different from spending $100 on a concert, between tickets and transport and drinks and a CD. Or spending $200 a year on going to the movies, which I happen to consider pointless. I’ve been to two movies this year, only because I was taken out. I would rather spend my $200 on one nice meal.
soakfu: Liquid nitrogen is not that scary…for your chemical lecturer to almost have lost his finger to frostbite he would have had to have his hand in there for a long time which doesn’t make any sense…it’s like keeping your hand on a burner and not taking it off, you wouldn’t do that. I work with liquid nitrogen every single day at my job and I stick my fingers in it all the time to pull out vials of tissue (while wearing latex gloves of course but that’s all you need)
LOVE THIS LIST JAMIE
I personally would rather hear that someone is splurging on amenities as apposed to things they never really needed or will never really use. I mean we all need food and if you want to spend money on it go for it. You worked for that money…so it’s yours to spend how you chose.
“Tricia-OK fine I don’t wear designer clothing. My brands are Target and the Gap. ”
I am pretty sure the gap is name brand. I am also sure that I have been in Target and seen just a single skirt run as much as 35.00-40.00 USD. I am pretty sure that you could find clothes cheaper else where so therefore Target and Gap could be considered luxuary to some people.
I just think we are all making our own money and we can spend it how we choose.
hello Listverse..
your previous posts are somewhat LAME…
please promise that the next list that you’ll be posting will be bizarre, disgusting, scary etc…
thanks
the picture for number five makes me want steak at 9:45 am.
Thats a first.
Nice List JFrater – just a pity my meal would cost me more than my airfare from where I live.
These types of restaurants usually only appeal to elitist snobs who go for the purpose of being *seen* to be dining there, and then to boast about it endlessly to friends and acquaintances afterwards (or indeed anyone who feigns interest). A modern version of one-upmanship.
And I agree with astraya and Tricia. There’s something horribly obscene about forking out such huge amounts of dosh on one meal when fully two thirds of the world’s population still goes to bed hungry every night. It’s just pretentious and wrong on so many levels.
That wasn’t a personal attack on you jfrater. Rather a general observation on the trend of excessive consumption which is so prevalent in the western world.
If you’ve ever had “Dippin Dots” ice cream, you’ve had a food prepared with liquid nitrogen.
well, all the moaning and whining aside, id sure like a bowl of that ice cream.
A lot of these are pretty much “mash something up in a new way and call it something special.” Sorry, but when normal people mash potatoes, they call them “mashed potatoes.”