So, you have been invited to dine with the Queen at Buckingham Palace and the invitation specifies “white tie”. You have no idea what that means or what it entails. Okay, it is unlikely that any of us will be dining with the Queen, but White Tie events do happen quite often and there is a very specific way that you must dress when attending one of these events. This list deals primarily with menswear as it is probably simple enough to tell women that they should wear their finest gown (no skirts, no trousers) when attending. We will start at the head and move down to the feet.
The correct hat to wear to a white tie event is a top hat. The wearing of a hat is optional, but if you do wear one you should also wear an opera cloak or coat. White gloves, scarf and cane are optional extras. According to contemporary sources, the inventor of the top hat, John Hetherington, caused such fright in people when he first wore his hat, that he was taken to court for wearing “a tall structure having a shining luster calculated to frighten timid people”. An authentic top hat should be wider at the top and bottom than the middle, and should have a curved upturned rim.
Your jacket should be a tailcoat – it must have a cut front that reaches to your waist and there should not be any part of the white vest underneath showing below the front. These coats have a split in the tail and often buttons on either side. The tails at the rear should not fall below your knees. The lapels (peaked) of the jacket should be covered with silk, or even better with grosgrain. In the photograph above, you can see that President Bush is wearing an ill fitting off-the-rack suit because the jacket front is too short. The Duke of Edinburgh (left) is wearing a well fitting suit with the correct length. The photograph on the right is another demonstration of a correctly fitting jacket and vest.
Your bowtie must be hand tied – do not buy a tie on a string or with clasps. It is as easy to tie a bowtie as it is to tie a regular tie – take some time to learn how. A hand tied is distinctively different in appearance and people will know. The tie should be made from cotton pique. You will need to have your neck measured when buying this item as bow ties come in various sizes.
Your shirt should be made of white cotton with a stiff front made of white cotton pique. The shirt should have no buttons down the front and it should have a single cuff requiring cufflinks (this is called a link cuff shirt, and is not to be confused with French cuffs – double cuffs – which are worn with a dinner jacket). The shirt must have a stiff wing tip collar (normally also made with cotton pique) and you can optionally wear a more formal shirt with a detachable collar. The front of the shirt should be fastened with white (or silver, or diamond) studs, and the cuffs should be fastened with matching cufflinks. The tips of the shirt collar are meant to sit behind the tie.
Your vest must be long enough to cover your waist – you should see no sign of the top of your trousers – including your suspender buttons. This is not usually a problem if you are wearing the correct trousers (unlike President Bush in the photograph attached to item 9). The vest should be made with white cotton pique and it should have three mother-of-pearl buttons – you should fasten all three buttons (contrary to the normal practice on non-formal vests). You can get two styles of vest – one has curving lapels, and the other sharp. Both are equally fine but curving lapels tend to be favored by olden men and can make you look overweight. In the photograph above we see a correctly styled vest, but unfortunately the jacket is too short and should not be worn with the vest in question.
You must wear suspenders with white tie. They should be button fastened suspenders – they should not have clips on them. You absolutely must not wear a belt at the same time as braces. Remember, suspenders are underwear – they must never be seen. For that reason you are free to wear any color you like. Suspenders are worn over your shirt but under your vest.
The correct trousers for white tie are fishtail trousers. These trousers sit on the waist, not the hips, and the back is higher than the front with a split with buttons (on the inside – same with the front) in order to fasten your braces. An example is seen in the photo above, but you should wear black trousers that are made to go with your jacket. Your trousers should have a double stripe down the outside of both legs (a single stripe is for black tie trousers). The stripes on your trousers should be made of the same material as the facing on your jacket lapels (grosgrain or silk). The trousers should fall to the heel of your shoe at the back – no higher, no shorter.
This is likely to be the most unusual item for most men – you must wear knee high black silk socks. These are readily available on the internet and in upmarket department stores. The best brand is probably Pantherella (as seen above).
When wearing white tie you must not wear patent leather shoes. The correct shoes are opera pumps which have a grosgrain bow on the front (as seen above). If you can not find opera pumps or do not own a pair, you can wear very high quality fine calves skin shoes – these are often sold as dancing shoes. You may also optionally wear formal slippers if you are hosting the white tie event (these are never worn outside of your own home). They are normally made of velvet and have an emblem stitched on the front. Opera pumps take a lot of getting used to if you are new to them as they do look a lot like women’s shoes without the high heel. Opera pumps are usually made of very fine high quality leather – they should not be made with patent leather.
The best type of handkerchief with white tie is fine linen – not silk. If you can not find a fine white linen handkerchief, silk is an acceptable alternative. The handkerchief must be white. The handkerchief should be folded (or puffed) and placed in the front pocket of your jacket so it is visible. If you wish to wear a flower in your lapel instead, you should generally not wear a handkerchief – though this is considered an acceptable practice it is not common. Keep an extra handkerchief in both of your trouser pockets – one for you in case you need it, and one in case you meet a lady in distress. Never use the handkerchief in your jacket pocket – it is for show only. You should also remember that it is considered extremely rude for any person to touch another person’s front handkerchief or tie.
Many thanks to Persephone who very kindly wrote a list of 8 points for ladies who are attending a white tie event. This is her 8 tips in their entirety:
I am a lady, therefore, I would not personally wear white tie. However, my husband does and we have been to several formal (i.e., white tie) functions in Europe and the United States. At least two people wanted to know a bit more about correct ladies’ attire, and with the permission of the Mr Frater, I will elaborate a bit.
1. Dress
As Mr Frater wrote, the dress can be of any colour. If there is an opening cotillion, very common at Austrian balls, regular guests should not wear white as pure white is reserved for debutantes. For a white tie function, especially one that involves dancing (e.g., Vienna Opera Ball in Austria), ladies wear a ball gown. A ball gown can be sleeveless, have short sleeves or even long sleeves (suitable for older ladies). The bodice is figure-hugging, whereas the skirt is full. Suitable fabrics are silks (silk satin, crepe, brocade, taffeta, dupioni, etc.), cotton (cotton satin or sateen, in the summer even cotton muslin) or various blends. A ball gown can be a two-piece ensemble, but the top and skirt must match. Here is an example of a ball gown.
2. Outerwear
The proper outerwear for a ball gown is a cloak. I have a black cotton velvet cloak that I wear during the traditional ball season. During the summer months, a simple silk shawl or a short matching bolero evening jacket (as pictured with the dress above) will suffice. Here’s a vintage evening cloak.
3. Shoes and Stockings
No sandals! Shoes must have closed toes and can be made of leather, satin, silk and in a colour that complements the dress. I usually wear black pumps and then switch into my ballroom dancing pumps. Stockings are a must for a formal event. Sorry, there no ifs and buts.
4. Handbag
A small evening handbag made of satin or silk usually looks best. You can either have one that matches or complements your dress.
5. Jewellery
Wear your tiara if you have one, and your best jewels. Watches are not worn, even if they are covered with diamonds.
6. Gloves
The proper gloves for a sleeveless of short-sleeved gown are opera gloves. For a long-sleeved dress, one may wear shorter gloves. Gloves are measured in buttons, an ancient French standard. The proper length is anywhere from 12 buttons (right above the elbow) to 18 buttons (middle of upper arm). Please avoid the 20 buttons as they look like you’re attending a fetish function or are about to star in a burlesque act. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but there is a time and place for everything. Traditionally, gloves are white, made out of kid leather and have a mousquetaire opening at the wrist, so a lady can eat and drink without completely removing her gloves. Gloves should always be worn when dancing, but hands must never be covered when eating. A lady may sip some champagne/water/wine, etc. while wearing gloves. Also, jewellery such as rings, bracelets, etc. are worn under not over the gloves. If you cannot fit them, don’t wear them if you’re bringing gloves. I see so many ladies who are trying to be elegant, wearing their rings over their gloves and eat dinner with them. I guess they just don’t know any better, but those of us who do, think it looks ridiculous. Kid gloves are expensive ($200+ per pair), but if you treat them well, they will last a lifetime. They may be lined with silk or unlined. Some are even washable. Here’s a great online place. If you don’t want to spend that much money, white or ivory silk is an acceptable alternative. Personally, I would abstain from anything coloured and polyester/nylon/spandex. Many ladies wear them, but they just don’t look very nice.
7. Make up
Tasteful and appropriate for you and the occasion. False eyelashes, eye shadow up to the brows, neon pink lipstick and two-inch neon pink talons are neither tasteful nor appropriate.
8. Hairstyles
Hair is usually in an updo, especially if there is dancing. You can wear your hair down, but many ladies prefer total or partial updos because the tiaras just look and fit better.
This is probably a good time to point out that white tie is evening wear – it should not be worn in the daytime. The same is true of black tie – neither should be worn before 6 o’clock in the evening.
Thank God you posted this! And after all that worrying over what to wear to the gala ball and the after-party with the Bilderberg Group…
Seriously though…sweet list.
TravelerDante: hey – maybe I will see you at the next meeting – I will be there to represent the List Universe’s attempts to take over the world!
Aah, I was wondering what I’d have to wear when I meet the Queen at the weekend! haha
I’m sure I could do a better job than Bush at this though. He seems to have epicly failed everything on this list
Two small points:
1) I think the top hat is eschewed these days. Think about the last time you saw someone wear one, even in televised coverage of high-gala events with Royalty.
2) As I recall, whether one wears the tailcoat or not depends on the *time of day.* But then that, I think, is only in reference to *black tie,* whereas you did specify white tie.
My mother, bless her, insisted on teaching me how to tie a bow tie (as well as a regular, standard necktie) when I was…. oh, I think I was about 13, maybe younger. I never forgot. One of those things a gentleman should know how to do, I guess was her thinking. I’ve made use of the bow-tie knowledge about…. oh, a total of four times, I think, in my adult life. Thanks Mom.
Randall: the tailcoat is always worn with white tie and white tie is only worn in the evening. Black tie uses a dinner jacket, and in the morning you wear a morning suit which has a different style coat. you couldn’t wear white tie without a jacket!
dangorironhide: alas he did – he would have been better off wearing a business suit – much less can go wrong
cool list.
So, do they not have tailors available at the white house or something? And he actually was with the Queen!!
I’ve been under the impression that “suspenders” are the clip on type and “braces” are the button type. And that, in this lexicon, braces are the preferred form. A bit more research revealed that “suspenders” and “braces” can be used interchangably however, British English uses the latter while American English is the former. Both refer to the same thing.
Since no one sees your suspenders , and most ppl hate them(ME!), we could always give that one a miss right!? So it should be optional!
Is it just me, or does Bush look like a head waiter?
Harsha:
Nope. There’s a big difference in how trousers “hang” or “rest” on the body depending on whether one is wearing suspenders/braces or a belt. The former is more elegant. Belts are inherently more casual.
Fascinating. I wonder how much my seamstress would charge to make this outfit for me.
Matt: thanks for that clarification
Harsha: you can’t give them a miss – the formal trousers you wear with White Tie do not hug your body like modern trousers – therefore, no suspenders – your trousers fall down. And that is something everyone CAN see (and probably doesn’t want to!)
As Randall said, proper formal trousers hang off the braces – it gives a much cleaner line to the suit and makes you look slimmer as well.
Mystern – in the UK a good tailor will make an outfit like that for you from anywhere between £3,000 to £6,000 – the price largely depends on the quality of the wool from which the suit is made. That would also not include the shirt and other accessories. Opera pumps range from around £200 a pair – up to around £600 for a truly bespoke pair. I managed to get mine for a very reasonable price because they were made for someone else and he never paid the shoemaker – luckily we were the same size and even though it is not truly ideal because they were not designed for me, they still fit very well. Now I just need more opportunities to wear them.
Emily: he certainly doesn’t seem to have one
jfrater: Well considering my seamstress really likes me and will make me a business suit for $100 (though I have to buy the material) I’m thinking I could get it pretty cheap.
I wonder if perhaps I could get one for under $500 not including the shoes/other accessories.
Wow . . . Glad I’m a girl! Interesting list!
You can, of course, save a lot of money by buying a suit set (dinner jacket, tailcoat, trousers, waistcoat) off the rack at some tuxedo shop or other, and then having it altered by a good tailor, to fit properly. Not as good as having a suit made, but far cheaper. As long as the material is correct (NO polyester, you clowns) you can get by pretty decently with it.
Shoes can’t be skimped on.
I’ve always had a tailor I deal with, even if I don’t have the money to have suits made… but this is one of the essentials of life (if one wants to look decent in clothes of any kind) that shouldn’t be passed on.
Quick point that a lot of Americans don’t know: the best suits (not formal) are Italian. Generous cut, and well-made. The French, by and large, cut smaller and tend to be “trendy” in the overall look, IMHO. The British also make great suits, of course—but they seem to be harder to find in the States for some reason, unless you’re in NYC or Boston.
The British and Italians also make the best quality shoes.
There are some good American shoemakers, but not as many as there used to be.
Best overall American suit maker, I still feel, is Brooks Brothers.
The end of my unasked-for Fun Facts for the day.
Randall – while I would normally agree with you – I don’t think you can do that in this case – you would be extremely hard pressed to find an off the rack evening suit that has trousers of the correct style – I am not aware of one modern clothing designer that makes them (though I could – of course – be wrong).
I would agree with you about the Italian suits too.
And thanks for mentioning polyester – every item on this list must be made from 100% natural materials.
Mystern: wow – that is a damned good price.
jfrater: Let me know next time you’re in SLC for a week and I’ll hook you up. It’s not that far from Cali.
I made an error on the shirt – it is meant to be a link cuff shirt not a French cuff – the link cuff shirt is a single cuff that requires cufflinks – it is rarely seen outside of the White Tie.
Mystern: thanks
wow, this list really came out of left field.
interesting tho
I find this list incredibly *****ist. =p How about one for the ladies? I wouldn’t want to show up in suspenders and opera pumps…
This list deals primarily with menswear as it is probably simple enough to tell women that they should wear their finest gown (no skirts, no trousers) when attending.
quote from first paragraph.
you or anyone is always more than welcome to submit another list…like women’s formal wear.
I will have to remember this if I ever get invited to a white tie event….wear pretty dress… gah the horror….
just kiddin’… I wear dresses from time to time… i think….
I work with a lot of diplomatic protocol including head of state visits… and although the top hat is technically part of white tie, no one wears them anymore (though white tie is technically the only time you’re supposed to wear a tiara, if you’re a woman).
The only time a top hat nowadays is mandatory (though even then not compulsory) is Royal Ascot, where it forms part of a Morning Suit.
is it still *****ing 1812 !?
Fun list. How could Bush be so naive to make such a faux pas? Oh wait, nevermind.
Angelina: The difference is that a man can put this outfit together and then wear it for every event. A woman, on the other hand, would never be seen in the same gown twice!
Is there a list on black tie already? I’m very curious as to the history of these styles and they why of it all.
When do men wear white jackets? I always thought that was white tie, but I see I’m wrong.
The Masons wear top hats at most of their formal functions, but only if they are a past Master (I think).
holy crap, those shoes!! i thought that you must have the wrong picture, til i read the description. how on earth are they considered manly with a big bow on them?
I all for everything except 3 and 2… and I’m gay!
I cannot believe there are people out there who go to such lengths just to appear in the ‘correct’ fashion. It seems like such a waste of time, money and effort to me. I think that anyone who actually involves themselves in this outdated practice is superficial and way to sheltered. I don’t think there is any thing wrong with dressing for the occasion, but this is just silly!
aplspud: no list on black tie but I will do one of those as well
White Jackets are mostly for summer events I believe, and they are part of “Black Tie” not White Tie. Incidentally, I am not sure if I made it clear in the list but “white tie” and “black tie” refers to the entire outfit – just as “Dinner Jackets” on an invitation means you should wear “Black Tie” also known as a dinner suit.
DiscHuker: considering that in the century before men were wearing makeup, powdered wigs, silk stockings, and high heeled boots, I would say they are certainly a big step in the direction of masculine
What!? You’ve never been to tea with the queen? Oh, you’re really missing out. Betty’s a hoot, especially after she gets a couple of Cuervo’s in her.
phubbie: I completely disagree. You miss the whole point. A) Human life, whether we like it or not, is largely a matter of looks. If you don’t agree, then show up for you next job interview in shorts and a t-shirt and see if you get it. Furthermore, B) there are times when formality is called for. This is what we mean when we talk about “ritual.” Formalwear is a kind of ritual, and it signals that we are taking a certain event or occasion seriously; that it resides within a context different from ordinary life. It’s far from superficial, and in fact to say it reflects a “sheltered” life is naive in the extreme. These kinds of formalistic rituals play a very important, albeit subtle, role in civilization—which sounds very heavy and over-the-top, but in fact isn’t.
Imagine a wedding, for example, where everyone came in, say, pajamas. Cute, maybe, and comical. Lotsa fun and lotsa laffs, perhaps, for the participants. But think harder about it. Would you take such a ceremony seriously? Is not a ceremony like that *supposed* to have *some* measure of seriousness to it? If it’s just a big joke, after all, then what does it mean? Why do we even bother with it?
Worse still, imagine two heads of state meeting in, oh, say…. tennis outfits. Comical. We might even argue that the informality could help them get along better, or some such thing.
But in fact just the opposite is true. It’s counter-intuitive, but it’s actually borne out by experience: familiarity, as the “opposite” of formality, breeds contempt. Formality, clearly, tends to lubricate social interactions—again, if you don’t believe this, attend a formal function some time, and observe people. Intuitively you may think (though I personally would not think this) that the formality would cause people to behave stiffly and uncomfortably—but in fact the opposite is true.
The formal automatically operates on the human mind to pitch it out of the ordinary, into a different sort of social arena. This is WHY we dress up for weddings, and why we used to dress up for church. It’s an acknowledgement that certain ceremonies, events, places and gatherings have an extra-ordinary significance for us. To ignore this or do away with it would damage the significance of these matters and blur the lines between the common and the uncommon—and this is one of the small aspects of society that civilization is both built upon and is enhanced by.
Again, sounds too deep–but think about it a while, and you’ll see the truth and wisdom in it.
Is it just me or are Randall’s posts getting longer?
*Ahem*
There once was a lister called Randall,
Who though one day he’d cause a scandal,
He wrote a long post,
Someone’s opinion to roast,
To him others can’t hold a candle.
Thank you very much
Cyn: Why, that’s just not true! Certainly a nice gown would be appropriate…but what color? What styles and cuts are approrpiate? Should the hair be worn down? What type of jewelry should be worn? What colors of makeup? Are 3″ heels out of the question? What about flats? What sort of purse accessory should be used? Are gloves expected? Hose? There are certainly enough factors for women to make a list for them too. =)
Oh geez, Bush had to embarrass us in front of the Queen??? Even i could see his clothes dont fit and i’m usually clueless about this sort of thing.
Awesome list!
Kelsi–Good questions, i’d be completely lost about what to wear and how to wear it if i had to attend a white tie event. We really do need a list.
Kelsi..reread my response, it was a quote taken from this list. my original comment followed.
_ _ _
(this ‘you’ is the ‘universal you’)
if you read the intro paragraph to any list it will clarify what the list is about so each item makes much more sense in context. (the closing paragraph will help provide context also.) i would recommend if someone chooses to comment on any list to be sure to read the entry in its entirety not just the items listed.
as always, should you feel the list is incomplete or an alternative perspective is warranted…you are more than welcome to submit your own list for consideration of publication.
i would strongly encourage you to participate in this site not just w/ commenting, which is also always welcome but take it a step further and become a true lister by submitting entries.
‘..the more the merrier…’
just be sure to read the contribution requirements carefully.
to fully appreciate how difficult a task it is to write a list and cope w/ the commentary…you gotta write one and experience for yourself what its like to have something you’ve written either praised or picked apart by other people.
an experience not to be missed.
or in my case, at least thus far, an experience i’d rather not endure…er…enjoy.
Okay – it seems the ladies do need a list
I presumed you would all know by default. So – briefly:
Color: Any color – there are no rules on color for ladies clothing except at a wedding or funeral (and the rule about no white after labor day which is, I think, virtually defunct these days). The rule is: do not out-do the bride at a wedding – therefore, best to let the bride be the only one in white. And: black to a funeral – of course. Out of respect for both the living AND the dead.
A gown should reach the floor. It should cover the upper arms at the least (though a shawl is fine if it is sleeveless). It must be one piece. It must be one piece. (I repeated that for clarity).
Heels? Flats are not okay. Heels can be any height but the first rule for a lady should be to wear what makes her look and feel elegant.
Hair: Wear your hair to look like a 40s movie star – up or down is fine as long as it is not an extreme style – it is your hair – you know what makes you look best. (remember – the aim is to look the best you can possibly look).
Makeup: Are there choices in makeup? A lady wears makeup that suits her skin tones – anything else is wrong on all occasions isn’t it? Having said that – black lipstick does not suit any woman’s skin type
Jewelry: This is the only time you can wear a tiara – so dust it off. Any jewelry is fine as long as it suits the gown and overall look.
purse: To match your shoes and gown? You can carry one – it should look part of the overall outfit.
Gloves: Wear them – you don’t get a chance to often wear formal gloves. If you wear a bracelet, wear it on top of the glove.
Here is a perfect example: http://newsimg.bbc.co.uk/media/images/42895000/jpg/_42895813_gallery_toastap416.jpg
Hose – a woman is naked without hose – at all times. They are, therefore, essential
Don’t forget a handkerchief – gentlemen willing to offer you theirs are few and far between nowadays.
Ermm… okay – that wasn’t brief – sorry.
jfrater: Thanks for the clarification on the white jacket. It is clear in the description that you are referring to the whole outfit, I just always thought white jackets were part of white tie. Good to know they are an alternative jacket in black tie.
BTW, I think its very *****ist of you to post the women’s list without pictures and within the men’s list
human life is by no means a matter of looks, especially in this context. it may be the case in our culture, but just because we started living “civilized” the past 10,000 years or so, does not by any means make it human nature, or anything of the sort. don’t get me wrong, i see what you mean when you say it is extremely relevant in our society, which is undoubtedly true; however, it seems as if human existence as a whole can be peeled back a layer or so.
idlareg:
I honestly don’t see what you’re trying to get at. I was not speaking merely in the sense of “our” culture (by which I assume you mean “western” culture? Or did you mean the “culture of modern man?” either way this addresses what you were saying) but I was speaking, yes, in the sense of overall human nature. That human life is largely a matter of looks is not simply a product of civilization. Clearly we are deeply hard-wired to depend on various forms of visual cues, upon which we (partly) base decisions, take actions, adopt attitudes, and so on. In ALL human cultures, the world over, regardless of their state of civilization, certain visual cues are relied upon for all kinds of ritualistic purpose. I could give you dozens of examples.
This is not merely a superficial matter that is relevant only to one “society” in time or place. In fact, I was saying that it’s when we start viewing it that way that we do damage to the structure and function of ritual—which we need as part of our humanity.
Excellent, interesting list with some good, unusual aspects (such as buttons or clips on braces) and some excellent responses.
aplspud: One comment about top hats and freemasons: in England & Wales not many lodges’ membes wear them on any occasion. I know of one London lodge whose members wear them but that lodge operates under the German Constitution (i.e. the German Grand Lodge.)
Randall: I agree with you about formal dress producing very appy occasions. It seems to bring out the best qualities, albeit in a subconscious manner.
Ahh! So, Americans really do spell pyjamas as pajamas. I thought it was only a myth, but I’m delighted to see it isn’t.
Ian: Good point regarding the modern custom of leaving the top hat at home (except Ascot’s finest section) – no point on buying or hiring one if it’s unnecessary!
phubbie wrote:
“I cannot believe there are people out there who go to such lengths just to appear in the ‘correct’ fashion.”
So why do people pay vast amounts of money just to wear clothes bearing a particular name or label? (And often the name has to be on the OUTside of the item!) Teenagers will sometimes ostracise those of their classmates not wearing the “correct” name.
jfrater: Thanks again for publishing this list.
Hello everybody,
Great list. I am a lady, therefore, I would not personally wear white tie. However, my husband does and we have been to several formal (i.e., white tie) functions in Europe and the United States. At least two people wanted to know a bit more about correct ladies’ attire, and with the permission of the Mr Frater, I will elobaorate a bit.
1. Dress
As Mr Frater wrote, the dress can be of any colour. If there is an opening cotillion, very common at Austrian balls, regular guests should not wear white as oure white is reserved for debutantes. For a white tie function, especially one that involves dancing (e.g., Vienna Opera Ball in Austria), ladies wear a ball gown. A ball gown can be sleeveless, have short sleeves or even long sleeves (suitable for older ladies). The bodice is figure-hugging, whereas the skirt is full. Suitable fabrics are silks (silk satin, crepe, brocade, taffeta, dupioni, etc.), cotton (cotton satin or sateen, in the summer even cotton muslin) or various blends. A ball gown can be a two-piece ensemble, but the top and skirt must match. Here is an example of a ball gown: http://www.rinadimontella.com/ViewTheCollection2.aspx?cname=RinaEvenings&did=0&pid=501898&year=2007&season=Fall&best=True&
2. Outerwear
The proper outerwear for a ball gown is a cloak. I have a black cotton velvet cloak that I wear during the traditional ball season. During the summer months, a simple silk shawl or a short matching bolero evening jacket (as pictured with the dress above) will suffice. Here’s a vintage evening cloak: http://tinyurl.com/5mtqmu
3. Shoes and Stockings
No sandals! Shoes must have closed toes and can be made of leather, satin, silk and in a colour that complements the dress. I usually wear black pumps and then switch into my ballroom dancing pumps. Stockings are a must for a formal event. Sorry, there no ifs and buts.
4. Handbag
A small evening handbag made of satin or silk usually looks best. You can either have one that matches or complements your dress.
5. Jewellery
Wear your tiara if you have one, and your best jewels. Watches are not worn, even if they are covered with diamonds.
6. Gloves
The proper gloves for a sleeveless of short-sleeved gown are opera gloves. For a long-sleeved dress, one may wear shorter gloves. Gloves are measured in buttons, an ancient French standard. The proper length is anywhere from 12 buttons (right above the elbow) to 18 buttons (middle of upper arm). Please avoid the 20 buttons as they look like you’re attending a fetish function or are about to star in a burlesque act. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but there is a time and place for everything. Traditionally, gloves are white, made out of kid leather and have a mousquetaire opening at the wrist, so a lady can eat and drink without completely removing her gloves. Gloves should always be worn when dancing, but hands must never be covered when eating. A lady may sip some champagne/water/wine, etc. while wearing gloves. Also, jewellery such as rings, bracelets, etc. are worn under not over the gloves. If you cannot fit them, don’t wear them if you’re bringing gloves. I see so many ladies who are trying to be elegant, wearing their rings over their gloves and eat dinner with them. I guess they just don’t know any better, but those of us who do, think it looks ridiculous. Kid gloves are expensive ($200+ per pair), but if you treat them well, they will last a lifetime. They may be lined with silk or unlined. Some are even washable. Here’s a great online place: http://perfectdetails.com/100.htm?Category_Code=LL
If you don’t want to spend that much money, white or ivory silk is an acceptable alternative: http://www.finalegloves.com/7016.html
Personally, I would abstain from anything coloured and polyester/nylon/spandex. Many ladies wear them, but they just don’t look very nice.
7. Make up
Tasteful and appropriate for you and the occasion. False eyelashes, eye shadow up to the brows, neon pink lipstick and two-inch neon pink talons are neither tasteful nor appropriate.
8. Hairstyles
Hair is usually in an updo, especially if there is dancing. You can wear your hair down, but many ladies prefer total or partial updos because the tiaras just look and fit better.
I hope I did not forget anything.
Cheers and have a good weekend.
Many thanks persephone – I have added your comment to the bottom of this list so that people don’t miss it. A great addition to the list!
Never mind the ball, I’d be happy with that dress! (The Rina de Montella one linked to in the first item on Persephone’s list) It’s beautiful.
in reference to the shirt details you wrote …
“An important point here: the tips of the shirt collar are meant to sit above the tie, not below (or behind) as is most commonly thought.”
I hope you accept this correction in the best way, as it is intended. Having been in the fashion industry and having studied historical formal wear, wings should ALWAYS be worn behind the bow tie. The purpose is to add pressure behind the bow tie, to make a proper “platform” for it to rest against, and also, it pushes the tie at a slight angle. This is achieved most effectively with a stiff, detachable wing collar.
Brad: thanks for your comment – I have amended the list to reflect it. After doing further research I confirmed that what you said is true in the majority of cases.
Persephone,
It IS permissible to wear bracelets or rings over opera gloves. I promise you this, not only because several internet forums mention their appropriateness, but also because I have seen several pictures of the queen of England wearing bracelets and so forth over her opera gloves.
Anne,
Bracelets perhaps. It is more a matter of personal preference, but rings never! I went to finishing school, and my teachers said no rings, no bracelets over gloves. That’s the rule I use. I don’t really trust most of the information posted in Internet forums. People today have forgotten proper dress (or if they ever knew it in the first place), and prefer the advice of sources I know and trust. BTW, I would be most interested to see a picture of the Her Majesty wearing rings over her gloves. Was it perhaps the coronation ceremony – in that case it is appropriate. However, I seriously doubt that anybody on this forum will be crowned a queen, therefore the rule stands.
I would highly recommend Miss Manners’ “Guide to Excruciatingly Correct Behavior” for more information.
Sincerely Yours,
Persephone
Top hats and morning dress are only compulsory in the royal enclosure at Ascot, but are popular elsewere. And can i just blow the trumpet of vintage white tie? I know that its old and worn by someone else and probably dosn’t fit, but if you hunt round long enough you can find a good coat which fits as good as any other for about £100. All my white tie gear is vintage, fits remarkably well and was remarkably cheap, even allowing for several heirlooms mixed in:
Coat: vintage, £75 (£25 loyalty discount)
Tie: £9
Shirt: I have 3, one I bought for £20, the others were made for my grandfather, and so fit me perfectly
Waistcoat: Grandfather’s again, made for naval evening dress so has gold buttons with anchors on but nobody has ever noticed
Trousers: £50
Suspenders: £8 – discount with trousers
Pumps: My father’s so fit very well
Hat: These are tricky, vintage ones are always far too small, as normal sized ones get snapped up by Etonians economising on uniform. Black evening ones (far more expensive than grey morning ones worn at Ascot) are rarely worn now, as you can only where them for the few seconds between getting out of your carraige/car, and going indoors again. I have never bothered with one.
All in all, less than £200, which would fit you out with the shoes if you bought new. I rest my case
crippy: I envy you your hand-me-downs! It is ideal if you can wear vintage which has been handed down through the family.
Both lists are very interesting and shed some light on a few unclear points. However, I have a question.
I’ve read in some places that tiaras may only be worn by married women, but there is no mention of this here. Is it true?
Interesting. This has helped my research (into social etiquette at balls for a novel I am writing).
The top hat quote made this list for me, “a tall structure having a shining luster calculated to frighten timid people”. Awesome
i just farted …